今回発表させて頂いたTCB No2 Jeans 1890のディテールを少しづつ紹介したいと思います。
リネンパッチに片ポケという1890年代の201を参考に作成

『小股の縫い方とリベット』
現在の考え方だと小股を縫う時は着用時開かない様に右前身と左前身を合わせる時は重なる様に縫います。
ただ、この年代の頃の小股は原始的で重なりが浅く開き気味。
TCBでも重なりをVintage同様にて縫い合わせています。
ただ股リベットの位置に関しては私も悩みましたがVintageは全然補強の意味の無い位置に打たれていますので小股のステッチの中に打ち強度を確保しています。
リベットの打ち方も当時の手打ちに寄る打刻痕を２度打ちする事により再現しています。

『左前ポケットのプリント』
Vintageでは正直薄っすらしか読めませんでしたがViktorの本などを参考に何が書かれてのかを理解することからしました。廉価版らしく『THE BEST VALUE』から始まるメッセージで19世紀に既に価格競争という概念が有った事に驚きです。

『折伏せ縫い』
チェーンステッチが開発される前の１本針縫製

『レインボーステッチ』
2色使いのダブルステッチ。デザインとして２色使いにした訳では絶対に無いと思います。
新品時一緒だった糸がそれぞれ違うペースで退色したか、最初からオレンジ系というアバウトなステッチで縫ってたか。
でも後の50年代のアーキュエイトステッチに出てくるレインボーとは理由が全然違います。
何故なら50’sのアーキュエイトは２本針ミシンで縫ってたので左右で違う色のステッチを使ってた事が想像出来ます。
ただ1890年代の仕様は前述の折り伏せを含めて１本針縫製。ダブルステッチを縫うのに２回縫う必要が有るのですが、もしかしたらホームメイドに近い形だけどコバ側とダブル側で違う人がチームで縫っていた？違う人がそれぞれのミシンで縫ってたから微妙にステッチ色が違う？
と、このステッチからだけでも当時の工場のレイアウトが想像出来て何故糸が違うかは謎が深まるばかりです。

『3Pボタン』
さすがに1890年代のボタンを外す訳にはですが..
タックボタン最初期の4ピースボタン
２本足とかS字ワイヤー入りとかより前のボタンをリベットで留めてる仕様です。
打つ前はボタンと真ん中のリベットと足の３ピースになります。

Crotch sewing & rivets
Speaking of the standard way of sewing on crotch today, we finish the crotch so as to make the fly almost overlap when pants are worn
However, the finishing on this vintage is, considering by the modern standard, poorly done with shallow overlaps. I think it’s also due to the immature pattern making but we have done the same finish on the crotch & the fly.
The crotch rivet placement is also interesting. The rivets were thought to be innovative and a big reason why Levis got popular for, right? but the crotch rivet on this pair is placed in a position that has no meaning in a sense of reinforcement. I thought a while if I should attach a rivet at the same wrong place but as a sewing person I know where Levis wanted to have the rivet on so we’ve done it right for our reproduction. If you look closely at the rivet, you can see a little dent there. The rivets were hand-hammered back then and so are our rivets this time.

Pocket Bag Print
To be honest, I could barely read the print on the vintage pair but the books by Viktor Fredbach helped me understand what was written there. It says The Best Value on the top. 1890 is when the patent of rivets expired. And Levis foresaw that many competing brands would appear on the market and price competition would intensify, which may have been why No.2 line was developed as a countermeasure against the competitors.

Flat Felled Seam
It was the mainstream sewing method by a single-needle machine at the time before chain stitch machines were invented.

Double stitching with two colors
Please look at the flat felled seam on the yoke. I definitely don’t think they chose to use two colors on this pair as a design.
Either the threads that were exactly the same at first faded at different rates, or any orange threads were okay as long as it’s similar color. However, the reason why these 201 have 2 differently colored threads is completely different from the one why the so-called rainbow stitch can be seen on the stitches of the late 50’s Jeans.
This is because the 50’s yoke seam was sewn with two-needle sewing machines, Union Special lap seam, which means you need to set two different threads on a machine on purpose to get the rainbow stitch. However, In the 1890s jeans were sewn with a single needle machine, which means you need to apply a single seam twice to get the yoke sewing done. If a person sews the yoke with one sewing machine, the thread color should be the same. Maybe the upper stitch was sewn by a person and the lower stitch was done by other, or it may have been due to the poor quality of the dye　back then but no one knows!

3 piece buttons
We can’t possibly remove the buttons from the jeans of 1890’s.
Before the two prong buttons or the donut buttons with the S-shaped wire inside were used, these buttons were mainstream. These buttons can be separated into a button, a rivet, and a base part