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TCB No2 Jeans 1890 Details ②

今回発表させて頂いたTCB No2 Jeans 1890のディテールを少しづつ紹介したいと思います。


Vintageでは正直薄っすらしか読めませんでしたがViktorの本などを参考に何が書かれてのかを理解することからしました。廉価版らしく『THE BEST VALUE』から始まるメッセージで19世紀に既に価格競争という概念が有った事に驚きです。




Crotch sewing & rivets
Speaking of the standard way of sewing on crotch today, we finish the crotch so as to make the fly almost overlap when pants are worn
However, the finishing on this vintage is, considering by the modern standard, poorly done with shallow overlaps. I think it’s also due to the immature pattern making but we have done the same finish on the crotch & the fly.
The crotch rivet placement is also interesting. The rivets were thought to be innovative and a big reason why Levis got popular for, right? but the crotch rivet on this pair is placed in a position that has no meaning in a sense of reinforcement. I thought a while if I should attach a rivet at the same wrong place but as a sewing person I know where Levis wanted to have the rivet on so we’ve done it right for our reproduction. If you look closely at the rivet, you can see a little dent there. The rivets were hand-hammered back then and so are our rivets this time.

Pocket Bag Print
To be honest, I could barely read the print on the vintage pair but the books by Viktor Fredbach helped me understand what was written there. It says The Best Value on the top. 1890 is when the patent of rivets expired. And Levis foresaw that many competing brands would appear on the market and price competition would intensify, which may have been why No.2 line was developed as a countermeasure against the competitors.

Flat Felled Seam
It was the mainstream sewing method by a single-needle machine at the time before chain stitch machines were invented.

Double stitching with two colors
Please look at the flat felled seam on the yoke. I definitely don’t think they chose to use two colors on this pair as a design.
Either the threads that were exactly the same at first faded at different rates, or any orange threads were okay as long as it’s similar color. However, the reason why these 201 have 2 differently colored threads is completely different from the one why the so-called rainbow stitch can be seen on the stitches of the late 50’s Jeans.
This is because the 50’s yoke seam was sewn with two-needle sewing machines, Union Special lap seam, which means you need to set two different threads on a machine on purpose to get the rainbow stitch. However, In the 1890s jeans were sewn with a single needle machine, which means you need to apply a single seam twice to get the yoke sewing done. If a person sews the yoke with one sewing machine, the thread color should be the same. Maybe the upper stitch was sewn by a person and the lower stitch was done by other, or it may have been due to the poor quality of the dye back then but no one knows!

3 piece buttons
We can’t possibly remove the buttons from the jeans of 1890’s.
Before the two prong buttons or the donut buttons with the S-shaped wire inside were used, these buttons were mainstream. These buttons can be separated into a button, a rivet, and a base part




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