TCB 1Fの工場エリアでは20’s Jacketの生産がスタートし始めました。
自社工場で縫うTCBは仕様書では無くサンプルに実際に注意点をペタペタ貼って要点をシェアして行きます。
20’sJacketの特徴は2本針ミシンが生まれたばかりの頃でしょうか？
イメージ通りのカーブを描く為に実際の製品を縫う前に何度もテストをした形跡が有りましたが、角を止めて1本針にしたり針飛ばしにする概念が生まれる前だったので、取った方法は強引に曲がる事
（最近は麻痺して30’sの2本針の内輪差で生まれる三角が近代的に見えて来たのは病気ですね笑）
フラップも丸く縫ってますしポケットに関しては強引過ぎて内側の針が一瞬膨らみます。
よく針が折れないよなと思いながら縫ってます….
こちらはあえて当時の強引な運針をイメージしてるのでポケットから脱線しててもOKという形にしてますので御理解下さい。
大戦明けの１stってポケットとフラップを一気に縫うのですが、この頃ってフラップは別に1本針で四方縫いして縫いとめてます。
手にした時に裏も見てくれたら嬉しいです。

Now our production team has been working on the 20’s Jacket.
We of course make a specification for each product but also we put some instruction stickers to make it visually understandable for everyone.

I’d say one of the unique points on the 20’s Jackets is the wobbly & wonky stitch work on the front pocket. In order to reproduce the perfect wonkiness at the corners we also needed to practice the immature but impressive stitch work. Basically, the sewing machines were not as advanced as the ones nowadays so they had no choice but to go round the corner forcibly without lifting up one of the needles. (If you see the triangle stitches at the corner, that means it’s sewn by the machine that can lift up either of the needle.） When applying the wonky stitch at the corners, much pressure is put on to the needles is I always feel a bit worried if the needle won’t break though. We also aim to have the corners of the pocket flap a bit rounded off too.

Speaking of the seam pitch, it sometimes goes very wide or in other cases it goes very minute on vintage items.
Looking closely the corners, the seams fall off of the pocket fabric but we intentionally do it so to get the extra vintage vibes.

The process of attaching the pocket and its flap is unique too.
For all the jackets after the 30’s, the pocket and the flap are sewn to the front body in one-go, which I think was a part of raising the production efficiency back then but the technique was not invented yet in the 30’s. If you have any type 2 denim jacket of any brand, please look at the backside of the flap, you’ll notice what I’m talking about (sometimes this detail is not faithfully reproduced on some jackets though)

On our 30’s Jacket we do the sewing right of course!