今回作る生地のターゲットは最上級と言われるXX DENIMでは無くNo2 1890年
実際にVintageをお借りして生地を作りました。
実物を見てまず最初に感じたのがムラが強くて長いスラブによる縦落ち感です。

通常デニムを糸から作る時は経糸７番を使います６番を使います。緯糸に６番です。という表記が多いですよね。
７番クラスのムラ糸で糸の中に太い６番っぽい箇所も有れば細い８番っぽい所もあるイメージ。

今回は何度も言いますが時は1890年代　No2という事で綿質や糸の形状も少し雑？だったという妄想を入れてみてみました。

経糸を借りに７番にしてムラを最大限にして貰ってもVintageの表情は出ないと判断しました。

Our targeted fabric to make this time is not the usual XX denim but No.2 from 1890.
In order to do the fabric right, we need a vintage pair but luckily we have the jeans in our hands.
The first impression I had on this fabric was that it’s so slubby and has strong irregularity in the yarn count in each warp and weft.

Speaking of the yarn count for some standard XX denim, yarn count 7 for the warps and 6 for the wefts are quite normal but the yarns used for the fabric this time has 6, 7, and 8 in one yarn, which also means that the spinning process was not as accurate as these days for sure. What we usually do to make irregular yarns we can now add the computer-regulated irregularity but I felt that it wouldn’t be enough to reproduce the super strong slubbiness by the said method so we had to come up with a different solution.