完成品は写真でしか観た事が無いんだけど、1880年代ののスクラップ生地から作成したWaist Overall
当時はまだ合成インディゴが開発されてないはずですから本藍染めで生地を作る所から始めました。
本藍で糸を染めるのはまだ想像つくのですが、当時の写真を見るとシッカリと色落ちしています。
私の中で本藍イコールカセ染めで糸の芯まで染まり色落ちは楽しめない。という概念が有ったので、Vintageの様な本藍なのに色落ちをする生地が作れるのか？
という所からスタートした生地でした。
結果は企業秘密の部分も多いのですが本藍染めをロープ染色で染めて貰い中白状態を作って頂いております。
本藍の特性上、そんなに濃色に染まらずリジットの状態でも青いなーっていうのが印象ですが、染色の粘りが強いので色落ちが始まり出した時、嫌でもコントラストが出る印象です。
当時は一生懸命に強度を上げるためにヘビーに織り上げた生地が9oz
今の感覚だとライトozになりますがそれがまた素敵なストーリーの一つだと思っております。
販売してるサイズが30 31 32と限られてますが、該当する方は是非試してみて頂けたらと思います。

I haven’t still got a chance to see the original vintage pair os this model. When we released our Waist Overall, we reproduced the fabric from a piece of Amoskeag fabric most likely from 1880. Back when the original jeans were sold, the synthetic indigo was not invented yet so that we had to start at the stage of searching a dyeing factory who could do the pure indigo dye.
Speaking of the indigo dye back then, I assume that it was the hank dye that was the mainstream way to dye but looking at the fabric, they are mostly faded like the jeans dyed by the rope-dye method.
In my theory, pure indigo dyeing was equal to hank dye so that I had to go from the scratch when reproducing the fabric.

I can’t tell you about the exact process of the dyeing because the pure indigo dyeing by rope-dye method is confidential even to the orderer (TCB) but with the top secret method, we were able to get the fabric done right! Due to the characteristic of any pure indigo dye, the tinge tends to get lighter but the indigo itself perpetrated to the core of each yarn, meaning that it takes more time to fade. In addition, it can also be said that this fabric has a wider range of the indigo color on jeans than the normal synthetic dyed fabric so the fade reflects more individual differences than the normal jeans.

It’s 9oz fabric so we find it very light to the standard of today but back then it was the toughest fabric that could be made, which I find a nice story. We have only 30~32 left for this model but I’d like you to try if the size seems good for you!