News/Daily

News / Daily

2021/09/25

BOSS OF THE CAT OVERALL 完成のお知らせ

この度1920’sのBoss of The Roadを参考にオーバーオールを作成しました。
名前はBOSS OF THE CAT OVERALL です
1ポケットってだけでも珍しいのに昔からずっと憧れてた特徴的なステッチワークの胸ポケットがお気に入りです。
何で100年前にこんな適当に見えるのに考え抜かれた三つの部屋が有るデザインが作れるのかが不思議で仕方有りません。

We have reproduced a vintage bib overall of Boss of The Road from 20’s. Easy guess but the name of our new release is “Boss of the Cat Overall”! This bib overall has one pocket, which is already quite unique enough for overalls, but with iconic stitch work on the pocket. I’ve loved this detail for quite a long time but finally had a chance to get a vintage piece. It’s from more than 100 years ago but I must admit that this pocket was made with much contemplation even though they look just like some doodles. The designer must have wanted to have a useful pocket that has 3 different compartments but needed to have the sewing process as simple and easy as possible. and BANG! the genius from 100 years ago came up with this great pocket.

『布ラベル』
元ネタは犬がキャラクターですが、今回も猫になって頂きました。TCBでは過去にも黒い熊や牛、馬やスティーブおじさんなど色々なキャラを猫に変身して頂きました笑
いつもは元ネタの雰囲気を壊さないように動物の角度も忠実に再現するんですが、今回はワガママに8種類のネコを採用とさせて頂きました。
(デザインはランダムにお届けさせて頂きますのでご了承下さい)

Cloth patch
The original is basically a dog brand but when it comes to TCB reproducing a product of any Dog brands, we need him to be a cat. We did this to Black Bear, Long horn cow, two horses and uncle Steve if you know what I mean.
We always have some playful mind with any tag design so this time we’ve created 8 different patch designs for this overall. (It’s like a tag lottery so we just ship whatever design at random)

『副資材』
ボタンも2本爪でこのオーバーオールの為だけに作成しました。
吊りカンは1910-20’sに見られるセットフックと言ってボタンは使わず三角の金具にフックで引っ掛けるクラシックな仕様です。
(この金具は今まで作って頂いた工場が廃業し今後作れるかどうかが不明です。1stロット分は確保してます。最近この様なvintage likeな副資材を作れる小さな工場が次々と廃業してる気がします。今後の物作りの課題の一つです….)

Hard wears
The buttons are two-pronged, made only for this new model. The wire hooks are often seen on vintage garments of 1910~20’s. Very classical details here too.
I often mention on the blog that the Japanese denim industry is diminishing but the factory who’s been making these wire hooks has gone bankruptcy so not sure if we can continue making this with the detail but for the 1st production run, we’ve used these wire hooks for each.

『生地』
8×14の10.2oz ムラ糸使いの2×1デニム。今回使用する生地は旧力織機で織られたセルビッジデニムではあるのですが、オリジナルのビンテージは耳使いがされていませんので、勿体無いかもしれませんが製品には耳を使っていません。耳を使わないのであれば、ダブル幅の生地(革新織機で織られた生地)を使えばより用尺も抑えたモノづくりが出来るのですが、ビンテージらしい雰囲気を出すにはやはり旧力織機で織られた生地が試作を重ねた結果一番でした。

いつも13-14オンスクラスの生地を分解すると大体7×6 7×9 みたいな糸使いが多いんですがこの生地は経糸8番に対して緯糸が14番とタテとヨコの差が大きいのが特徴です。
なぜそうするのか?
高級なゲージの細かいニットを想像して欲しいのですが、横糸が細くなる事により、高密度に打ち込んで織り込む事が出来ます。
よって10オンスなのにヘビーオンス同様の耐久性を再現してるみたいです。
そしてヨコに対してタテが太い為、色落ちした時タテに走りやすく筋感のあるタテ落ちが期待出来ます。
2/1特有の生からは想像出来ないギャップの有る表情が楽しみです。
また、タテのロープインディゴ濃色は淡いんですがヨコの糸は極薄キベージュ味にこだわっています。横糸を染めるのは当時の生地の色を濃く見せる工夫なんだと思いますが、汚れを目立たせなくする為と、少ない染色回数でも高級感の有る生地に見せる方法だったんだなと思うと生地の裏側さえ可愛く見えます。2/1ワークセルビッチデニムの原点ともいえる素材になっています。

Fabric
It’s 10.2oz denim with wefts of yarn count 8 and was of yarn count 14. When choosing which yarn to use, the basic is to use the similar yarn count for both wefts and warps. If you look at some 13 or 14 oz fabric, it’s usually like wefts:7 and warps:6 or wefts:7 and warps:9.So the difference between the wefts and the warps is relatively big for this new overall. Then why??

Imagine some high grade knit sweater with a fine gauge. If the wefts are fine and narrow, the warps can be woven much more densely, meaning that the fabric can achieve as much durability as heavy oz fabric even though the yarn count of the threads is not that thick. One more good point of the said balance between thick warps and narrow wefts is that the warps tend to develop strong vertical fade if the warps are much thicker than the wefts. It means, in other words, the warps sits almost on the wefts if you look at the fabric through a magnified lens, leading to the warps having more contact with frictions etc.

It’s 2 by 1 fabric so at first it might look flat and boring but you can expect some wild fade from this fabric.
Speaking of the dye color, the indigo is not as dark as average jeans so you find a bit more blueish tinge on this fabric but this time we’ve payed an extra care to the wefts which are often thought to be less important but we have dyed the wefts in very pale beige color.
This is just my opinion as a jean maker but I think people used to think that the darker the fabric is the better quality it is. However, it of course costs more to produce the darker indigo threads so people instead used dyed wefts to make the fabric darker so that stains and dirts don’t stand out on a clothing. If you have a chance to see this overall in person, please check the backside of the fabric too and then you’ll soon realize it looks different from normal denim fabric.

『シルエット』
どうしても文章だとザックリした表現になるのでオンラインストアのサイズ表の数値を参考にして頂きたいのですが、Vintageのオーバーオールの雰囲気は壊さずに少しスッキリ仕上げており、膝より下にも少しだけテーパーを入れてます。

Cut
It’s quite difficult to describe by writing but the legs have slight tapering towards the bottom and it’s a touch slimmer than the other TCB overalls. Styling a bib overall might seem a bit challenging if you are not used to it but we’d like to recommend this one for bib overall beginners!!

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