現在予約受付中のWool-Lined 50’s Jacket
ライニングはVintageの517XXを参考にピッチと色目を参考にしてます。
比較写真は違って見えますが、新品を着込んだ時、色が合ってくるよう計算して作ってます。

Comparing the wool fabrics, the tinge on our fabric look a bit darker but we have counted in the fades on the fabric so when it’s worn well the hue will be pretty close to the vintage piece. The pitches and the widths of the stripes are authentically reproduced from the vintage 517XX we own.

巻き縫いミシンはvintageを参考に9/32inchのunion specialを採用。
最初は表地と裏地は別々に巻き縫いされており最後の脇の下は表地と裏地を一緒に巻き込んでいます。
Vintageは生地が重なり厚くなる場所はズラして縫製してる為TCBでも再現してます。

For the lap seams, we use our vintage Union Special with the sewing width of 9/32 inch. Speaking of the process of doing the lap seam, we do it separately for the denim and the wool fabric first and then sew them together on the armpits. If you look at the around-shoulder lap seams on the inner side of the vintage, they are sewn staggered to avoid that the fabrics overlap a lot and get too thick to be sewn. So, we have sewn them in the exact same way as the vintage piece.

1枚目がvintageで2枚目がTCB/ 1st pic: Vintage 2nd: TCB jacket

裏地付きのカフスの開き止まり
Vintageを初めて観た時に縫製の仕方を正直悩みました。
表地は1箇所ハサミを入れる場所が有ります、当初裏地側も巻く前にハサミを入れなければとは思いましたが、カフスの開きだけを何度もテストをし、Vintageと同じ縫製仕様にて仕上げれました。
The finishing on the cuffs opening was the most difficult part and is quite difficult to explain by writing though but it really gave me a headache.There is one part to cut on the cuffs of the outer material(denim) and the same principle goes for the inner material(wool) but the wool fabric of the vintage was not cut there so after many mistakes there we could finally solve the puzzle to finish the cuffs in the same vintage way.

TCBCATもブランケットの上に縫い付けてるのでいつもより暖そうです。 TCB cats tag on the wool lining and it seems they look warmer than usual. You might hear them purr.
もしかしたらご機嫌で喉をゴロゴロしてる音が聞こえてくるかもしれません。

10代の頃の憧れも込めて ボーダーを表に着るのも悪く無い
黄色いパーカーを探さなきゃ
With my longing from my youth days.