今回私たちが出逢ったVintageはLevisの100年前のNo. 1 Cloth Ticket Bib overalls

12.5ozのXX DENIMにリベット留めという贅沢な仕様です。

ヴィンテージの実物を参考にしていたとき、当時の広告を読む機会がありました。
そこには、こう記されていました。

「50年間、リベット付きのウエストオーバーオールを作ってきた私たちが、
同じクオリティでオーバーオールを製作した。」

さらに、厚手のXX DENIMを使い、負荷のかかる箇所すべてにリベットを打った、とも。

ただ、30’s以降に続くオーバーオールやカバーオールの歴史を振り返ると、
XX DENIMの厚みは、もしかしたら“やり過ぎ”だったのかもしれません。
作業内容によっては、リベットが何かに干渉してしまうこともあったでしょう。
その結果、補強にはバータックが主流になっていったのかもしれません。

でも、10ozクラスの生地では出せない“圧倒的な色落ち”を生んだのは、間違いない。

ある意味、Too muchな仕様。
だからこそ、定番にはならなかったのかもしれません。
けれど、王者がワーク部門で絶対的な存在になれなかったからこそ、
20’s～30’sには、ストアブランドから多様で面白いワークウェアが生まれた。
そんなふうにも思います。

ぜひ、TCBのオーバーオールで、
“XX DENIMで作るオーバーオール”がどんなものだったのかを体感してみてください。

生地は1920’sのXX DENIMを当時使用されてるストーリーからTCB20’sの生地を使っています。
The vintage piece we came across this time is Levis’ No. 1 Cloth Ticket Bib overalls from 100 years ago.
They’re made with 12.5oz XX denim and riveted for true workwear finish.
While looking at the actual vintage piece, I also had the opportunity to read an advertisement from that time.

It goes:
“We’ve been making riveted waist overalls for 50 years,
and now we’ve produced overalls with the same quality.”
It also said that they used thick XX denim and riveted all the parts that could break with wear.
However, looking back at the history of overalls and chore jackets since the 1930s, the thickness of XX denim may have been a bit too much for overalls.
Depending on the work you do, the rivets could have got in the way.As a result, bar tacks may have become the standard method of reinforcement.

But there’s no doubt that the XX denim produced this fabulous fade that just can’t be achieved with 10oz fabrics.

In a sense, the sewing specifications were too much as well. Perhaps that’s why it never became a staple from both standpoints of manufactures & customers.
However, We can think this way: because the Jeans king brand, Levis, was unable to become an absolute presence in the chore jackets & overalls category, store brands produced a wide variety of interesting workwear. That’s how I feel.

We encourage you to try these TCB overalls and experience what overalls made with XX DENIM were like.
Because the fabric is based on XX DENIM from the 1920s, and TCB 20s fabric is used on these overalls. We think that our 20’s fabric is one of the most accurately reproduced TCB custom-made fabrics. Some find them a bit too light but in the vintage jeans time, there were no 15, 16, 17, let alone over 20oz denim.　Even we, who have worn jeans for more than 20 years, find it a bit uncomfortable wearing the heavy-oz denim. It’s just my own thoughts but maybe this 12~14oz fabric is best to balance the durability and the comfortableness and this soft & comfy fabric was the reason why people back then loved jeans