2024/10/23
現在 TCB1F 工場エリアではDenimのCathartt Chore Coatを生産中です。
そういえば予約を取って無かったと思い、オンラインストアの予約ページを急遽作成しました。
そして工程は丁度UNION SPECIALの43200GでCathartt の裾を縫ってたのでふと語った事が無かったよなと思い今日はカバーオールの裾の話でも。
改めて説明するとTCBのCatharttは1920’sのCarharttのVintageを参考に作りました。
私のいつもの妄想も入りますが1920年代といえばLeviのジーンズで言うと裾の縫い方がシングルからチェーンに丁度変わった頃。
もしかしたらカバーオールを縫う担当の人たちも裾縫いの裾ミシンを使えば効率的に縫えるという発想になったのかもしれません。
Carhartt以外でも1920-30年代でパンツの裾縫いと同じステッチだよなーと思うカバーオールを見た事がそういえば有ります。
Ryo君に着て貰った色落ちしたCatharttを観るとVintage同様の裾の色落ちの雰囲気に仕上がってるのが確認できます。
あくまでも100年前に裾をチェーンで縫ったら色落ちがカッコイイ。なんて会話は一切行われてた訳では無く、チェーンで縫ったら早いよねという製造業目線だったんだろうと想像します。
結果的に副産物として魅力的な色落ちが付いてきた。という部分がワークの縫い方の魅力かと思います。
We are currently producing denim Cathartt Chore Coats in the TCB1F factory area.
Come to think of it, I hadn’t taken any reservations, so I quickly created a reservation page for the online store.
And as I was just sewing the hems of Cathartt jeans with UNION SPECIAL’s 43200G, I suddenly realized that I had never talked about this before, so today I’ll talk about the hems of coveralls.
To explain again, TCB’s Cathartt jeans were made with reference to vintage Carhartt jeans from the 1920s.
This is my usual fantasy, but the 1920s was the time when the hem stitching of Levi jeans changed from single to chain.
Perhaps the people sewing coveralls also came up with the idea that they could sew more efficiently by using a hemming machine.
Come to think of it, I have seen coveralls from the 1920s and 1930s other than Carhartt that I think had the same stitching as the hems of pants.
Looking at the faded Cathartt that Ryo wore, you can see that it has the same faded hem look as the Vintage.
I imagine that 100 years ago, there was no discussion about how chain stitching the hem would look cool, but rather it was from the manufacturing perspective that chain stitching would be quick.
As a result, attractive fading was a by-product. I think that this is the appeal of the work stitching method.