2024/06/21
これから夏を迎える時期だというのに私たちが準備したのはCatharttをベースに敢えて2つのストライプ
写真で観るとWABASHの濃淡2色展開作ったの?
と思われるかもしれません。
実は私たちが今回採用した生地は一つは縞を織りで、もう一つは抜染で表現しています。
WABASHの歴史って30年ほどしか無いと言われています。
実際に生地を作ってみたら分かったんですが
生地をインディゴ染めする
↓
柄を抜染剤で抜く
↓
真っ白に抜けた柄に色を入れる
という果てしなく長い工程を踏む必要が有ります。
きっと何処かで思うはずです。
『ストライプは織りで表現すれば良いじゃん』って….
もちろん現在に再現しようと思うとやはり生地代の差は出てしまいました。
両方とも1910-30’sのVintageで見かける事が出来る生地になりますが敢えて同時に観て頂く事により生地を見つめるキッカケになってくれたら嬉しく思います。
(あくまで工程による値段の差であって抜染WABASHが良くて織りによる表現が悪いとかそういう事を言いたい訳では御座いません。)
We are about to welcome the scorching summer in Japan but what we’ve been working on lately is these 2 stripe chore coats. If you look at the pictures, the two look alike but they are essentially different from each other.
One of the stripe we use this time is woven so that the white thread is mixed to make the stripe pattern and the other one is made by discharging the fabric. It’s said that wabash fabric was used only for 30 years in the history of work wear. But why?
Speaking of the process to make wabash fabric, it goes like this.
Weave ecru fabric and then fabric dye in Indigo
↓
Discharge the indigo fabric in some pattern
↓
put some other color in the discharged parts
It’s a long process and of course the longer it is the more expensive it’ll get.
People back them must have thought maybe it’s more cost & time efficient to make the similar fabric in the process of weaving, which would replace wabash with later on. We’ve reproduced both the style this time but the same price dynamic applies in the present day though.
It’s not that wabash is better than woven stripe but the price difference is brought purely by the process.
□Fabric
Woven Stripe ( The left one in the picture 2, appearing bluer)
3-by-1 construction, left hand twill, 9.8oz.
The warps are indigo dyed and have irregular thread thickness in each yarn. So, you can enjoy the fade like denim.
Wabash Stripe (The right one in the picture 2, appearing dark blue)
2-by-1 construction, left hand twill, 10oz.
It’s fabric dyed in indigo so it will show the wabash fade. (the fabric will fade evenly to lighter blue.) On the discharged parts, light beige color is put in so that the stripe pattern stands out.
□Size
TK 180cm 65kg wearing Woven Stripe in 36/ perfect fit with only a T-shirt inside
Ryo 180cm 85kg wearing Wabash in 40/ enough room to put on some sweater.