2022/08/05
この度ハートボタンで作成したChore Coat Catharttに新色Paw Stripeが登場します。
Vintageで存在したハートストライプとCats Pawをミックスし、出来上がった服として観てもクラシックでカッコいい。
でも良く観ると可愛いという二面性を持ったChore Coatの出来上がりです。
今回この生地を作成してくれた場所は私の故郷,広島県福山市の山陽染工株式会社さん少年時代近所のゲームセンターに通いましたが、まさかこんな近くに面白技術を持った会社が有っただなんて知りませんでした。
国内でも数少ない原反インディゴ染めができる連続染色機を使ってインディゴ染めをした後に着抜プリントと言って、シリンダーで抜染剤を付着させ色を抜き、ベージュ色に染み込みプリントを乗せる。という工程です。
白く抜いたハート柄にベージュを乗せる為、少し輪郭が滲んだ様なハートが出来上がります。
一見チープだけど手が掛かるそんな仕様です。いきなりインディゴの生地にべージュの柄を乗せてもこうはならないみたいです。
作ってみて、そして工場見学までして思いましたが
Stifel社の生地の作り方って、結局手間が掛かり過ぎちゃって無くなったのかな?と思いました。
それを現在でも同じ方法で作る事が出来たのだから山陽染工さんには感謝しかなく、コストの事を考えたら生地の裏側にプリントするのは躊躇したのですが、最終的にはウズウズしてBootsの代わりに猫が居る。
着用してしまうと関係無いんだけど、着用する度に目に入る。そんな所もこの生地の魅力の一つなのかもしれません。
Chore Coat自体のディテールはDenim同様に
1940-50年代のCarharttのVintageをベースにしながらも様々な資料を参考にしながらMASTER CLOTHネームとハートボタンと時代考証が合う様に1920年代の雰囲気に作ってます。
真ん中で剥ぎが入ったスクエアな襟
アイレットで付けるチェンジボタン
アジャスト可能な第一ボタンとカフス
セットインスリーブ
TWO CATS BLOUSE等でも再現してる低い袖山
は健在です。
是非お楽しみに!
New color/fabric added to Cathartt Chore Coat family!In history, Carhartt had a very unique heart-shaped stripe wabash and TCB mixed it with a cat humor, making it Paw Stripe Wabash! It looks classic but at the same time if you have a closer look at it, there still remain some cuteness!
This time, we asked Sanyosenko which is located in my hometown, Fukuyama city in Hiroshima prefecture, to make this custom-made wabash fabric. When I was young, I often visited an amusement arcade near the factory but I had no clue at all that there was such a company who had this unique printing/discharging facility.
There are very few factories in Japan who can do indigo post-dye onto rolls of fabric, discharge the indigo in arbitrary shape, and finally print a beige dyeing onto the discharged parts. That’s basically the process of how we make wabash fabrics.
We’ve made a heart-shaped mold for this fabric and followed the procedure above. If you are familiar with vintage wabash fabrics, you might know that the outlines of each wabash pattern is often somewhat blurred. That’s because the more you produce, the more deteriorated the mold itself gets so in the end we will need to replace the mold with a new one. But we thought if each heart was really clear and obvious, it might come across as too flashy to wear so we intentionally made the mold to be a bit age deteriorated to have blurred heart-shapes. I hope this also helps this fabric/product achieve both coolness and cuteness!
This fabric might strike you as a bit cheapskate? but after studying each procedure of making a wabash fabric in person, it occured to me that this was the reason why Stifel stopped producing wabash fabrics. It takes much time, much effort, and much cost to make a wabash fabric!
Nevertheless, I can’t help appreciating Sanyosenko who went all the way to make our wabash product in the exact same process as how vintage fabrics were made. Also, when it comes to any Stifel fabric, you may wonder if the unique back print is still there. (There are boot-shaped print with the Stifel logo in it on the backside of any Stifel fabric). It of course makes its cost a bit more expensive but I had no choice but to have our backprint to make it a purrfect and meownduful reproduction.
What did we do to decide the pattern and the silhouette this time?
We own 2 Carhartte Vintage jackets from the 40’s ~ 50’s. Based on those jackets, we’ve studied the cut, the sewing to make our jacket match the 20’s feel.
To be more precise about the 20’s feel, we’ve adopted the following details on our new chore jacket
:Square collar with a joint at the center.
:Adjustable change buttons with eyelets on the cuffs and the collar.
:Set-in sleeve
:low sleeve caps often seen on the garments of 20’s or before