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Cathartt Paw Stripe

この度ハートボタンで作成したChore Coat Catharttに新色Paw Stripeが登場します。
Vintageで存在したハートストライプとCats Pawをミックスし、出来上がった服として観てもクラシックでカッコいい。
でも良く観ると可愛いという二面性を持ったChore Coatの出来上がりです。

Chore Coat自体のディテールはDenim同様に
1940-50年代のCarharttのVintageをベースにしながらも様々な資料を参考にしながらMASTER CLOTHネームとハートボタンと時代考証が合う様に1920年代の雰囲気に作ってます。
TWO CATS BLOUSE等でも再現してる低い袖山


New color/fabric added to Cathartt Chore Coat family!In history, Carhartt had a very unique heart-shaped stripe wabash and TCB mixed it with a cat humor, making it Paw Stripe Wabash! It looks classic but at the same time if you have a closer look at it, there still remain some cuteness!

This time, we asked Sanyosenko which is located in my hometown, Fukuyama city in Hiroshima prefecture, to make this custom-made wabash fabric. When I was young, I often visited an amusement arcade near the factory but I had no clue at all that there was such a company who had this unique printing/discharging facility.

There are very few factories in Japan who can do indigo post-dye onto rolls of fabric, discharge the indigo in arbitrary shape, and finally print a beige dyeing onto the discharged parts. That’s basically the process of how we make wabash fabrics.

We’ve made a heart-shaped mold for this fabric and followed the procedure above. If you are familiar with vintage wabash fabrics, you might know that the outlines of each wabash pattern is often somewhat blurred. That’s because the more you produce, the more deteriorated the mold itself gets so in the end we will need to replace the mold with a new one. But we thought if each heart was really clear and obvious, it might come across as too flashy to wear so we intentionally made the mold to be a bit age deteriorated to have blurred heart-shapes. I hope this also helps this fabric/product achieve both coolness and cuteness!
This fabric might strike you as a bit cheapskate? but after studying each procedure of making a wabash fabric in person, it occured to me that this was the reason why Stifel stopped producing wabash fabrics. It takes much time, much effort, and much cost to make a wabash fabric!
Nevertheless, I can’t help appreciating Sanyosenko who went all the way to make our wabash product in the exact same process as how vintage fabrics were made. Also, when it comes to any Stifel fabric, you may wonder if the unique back print is still there. (There are boot-shaped print with the Stifel logo in it on the backside of any Stifel fabric). It of course makes its cost a bit more expensive but I had no choice but to have our backprint to make it a purrfect and meownduful reproduction.

What did we do to decide the pattern and the silhouette this time?
We own 2 Carhartte Vintage jackets from the 40’s ~ 50’s. Based on those jackets, we’ve studied the cut, the sewing to make our jacket match the 20’s feel.
To be more precise about the 20’s feel, we’ve adopted the following details on our new chore jacket
:Square collar with a joint at the center.
:Adjustable change buttons with eyelets on the cuffs and the collar.
:Set-in sleeve
:low sleeve caps often seen on the garments of 20’s or before




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