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506XX same or different



In the 20’s, the pattern of the collar was still a complete rectangle. When worn, the collar goes wide spread and how the collar looks is very archaic in a good way, which you rarely see in the clothings of today. After the 30’s, the cut pattern was revised and the collar sits with some angle.
There’s one more interesting detail in the weaving direction of the fabric used on the collars. If you look at the collars on the 20’s & 40’s jacket, the fabric was cut vertically whereas the collar on the 30’s jacket was cut laterally. When the jackets are in a new state, it might be difficult to tell the difference but it’ll be obviously different once faded. By the way, the selvedge is used only on the collar of the 20’s JK but it’s hidden underneath so that you can’t directly see it though.


■Box pleats stitching
They vary greatly and it has a wide range of individual differences. If you look at the vintage jackets, 20’s has very narrow ones and they become wider and larger on the 30’s, and they go much wilder, even misaligned, on the 40’s. After the 40’s, the size and the width of the box pleats become narrower again.


The fly buttons, the smaller ones, are used on the 20’s Jacket. On the 30’s Jacket, the button size become the same size as the standard ones. In the 40’s, the buttons are of the laurel wreath without the brand name because of the regulations on the manufacturing under the time of war.


The pocket size depends on the size of jackets so we’d like to focus on talking about the sewing details here.
When it comes to the stitch work on the front pocket, the two-needles machines were used for the 20’s ~30’s Jackets so that the distance between the two stitches should always be the same regardless of the skills of sewing person. But in the 20’s, I assume that the two needles machines that can lift up either of the needles were not developed or they were not prevalent yet. As a result, the sewing pitch of the inner stitch at the corners gets finer because you need to forcefully sew the corners, which I think is one of the interesting details. On the other hand, looking at the same pockets on the 30’s or S40’s Jackets, the sewing machines developed. So, it became possible that we stop right before sewing the corner, lift one of the needle on the inner side, change the direction nicely, and then put back the needle again. As a result, you can see a nice little triangle at the corners.

Speaking of the flaps, the stitches on the flap on the 20’s Jacket are more roundish but they are more sharply sewn with an angle on the 30’s. On the 20’s, the sewing was done separately between the pocket and the flap but on the 30’s, they were done in one-go, which you can see if you see the back side of the flap. The 40’s jackets don’t have the flap again because of the said regulations.
Some might find it sad but 20’s Jacket didn’t have the iconic red tab yet.




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