2021/06/25
糸をLogwoodで染めたいという事だけ決定しておりましたが、現在その手法をお願いしたいとしたら何処にお願いしたら良いのか?
生地屋さんにも色々動いて頂いていたのですが、中々答えの出ない日々に少し不安な日々を過ごしていました。
職人さんを探し始めて2ヶ月は経ってたと思います。京都の染め屋さんで受けてくれるとの朗報を受けました。
The only thing decided was that we would dye the fabric by logwood but we had no clue who could deal with this tricky dye. Our partnered fabric maker helped us do many research but no one could find any factory to do that for about 2 months but finally we received a good news from a dyeing factory in Kyoto where dyeing is historically and traditionally famous because of beautiful kimonos.
すぐに私たちはアポを入れさせて頂き京都に向かいました。(京都出身のRyo君が通った高校の近くでした)
メインは最高級車のシートのステッチを染められてる会社で私たちのお願いを聞いてくれた事を嬉しく思います。
おおきに!
We made an appointment and hastily payed a visit to Kyoto ( It was very close to the high school Ryo used to go)
The main product of the dyeing factory is beautifully dyed yarns used for the interior of luxury cars and according to the people from the factory, logwood dye is already a relic of the past so no one today really use them anymore but a living national treasure person of natural dye thought our idea to dye yarn for denim by logwood quite interesting so we finally succeeded in making logwood fabric!
Logwoodとはアメリカの先住民族マヤ族が伝統的に使用していた染料で血の木という意味を持つらしく、染めてる時の排水が、鮮血その物で床に飛び散る様が、サスペンスドラマの現場と化してたのですが、私は気になり聞きました。
Logwood, or bloodwood, is a tree that is native to the West Indies and South America. When the ground heartwood is soaked in water it makes a blood red liquid which can be used as an indicator solution, changing colour depending on what is added to it. Used as a dye it can produce a range of colours from black and purple to a delicate fawn.
When I was there checking out how the logwood dye was going, it was almost like a scene from some kind of a splatter movie because of the blood looking water EVERYWHERE.
『天然染めの排水はそのまま流れても地球に悪く無いですか?』
との質問に
『草木染めは自然界の物を使って染めるため、安全性が高いと言えます。植物を煮煎じた物を使うので、熱湯のまま川に流すなどをしなければ環境を傷つけてしまうことはまずありません。』との返答でした。
(重金属の媒染剤を使うなどの時は、ケアをされてると思います)
最近は排水の色も濾過してクリアにする為、どうやらサスペンスドラマの現場はこの工場内のみの出来事みたいです。
糸の色の経過で観ると生成りだった糸がまずピンクに染まります。
この時点では全然オーダーと違うんだけどとドキドキするのですが、媒染の工程を経て徐々にオーダー通りの色になって行きました。
I asked, any natural dye including this logwood is more eco-friendly?
They professionally answered yes. It doesn’t include any synthetic dye but the ingredient is 100% extracted from logwood so it’s eco-friendly. When we dye, we need to boil them to keep the color deeply penetrated so unless you throw away the boiled water, nothing would damage the environment. Before dumping the reddish water, they are going to be filtered to be transparent again too.
If you go through the pictures of the dyeing process, you see the ecru threads being dyed to pink and then brownish grey and finally grey. When Ryo and I first saw the bright pink color, we were like oh… the color is totally different from what we were imagining… oh my.. but it gradually turned into the color we wanted!