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大戦モデルの後ろポケット ラフな形とラフなステッチがこのモデルの魅力だと思います。
I think one of the biggest attractions for S 40’s Jeans is the rough shape of the back pockets and the roughly finished stitch works.

We have discussed how we can produce this wonky stitch work and irregular shape of the two back pockets like some brands doing hand fold the pocket. But In order to provide the consistent irregularity (sounds self contradictory though), we decided to make two different patterns, tracing the exact shapes from the vintage piece.

(一般的なパターンは後ろポケット×2 と表記されており反転させて左右対象のポケットを作る事が多いです)
I’m almost certain that the maker back then used to make different patterns for the left and the right since any pockets don’t have the curved lines. The more curved lines jeans have, the more time consuming and the more difficult it is to sew perfectly, which was clearly not wanted at that time. But in the hindsight, the vintage has very different shapes, which we think are the iconic details of WW2 jeans.
Speaking of the pattern, usually we make only one pattern and flip the pattern horizontally for the other side. So the paper pattern says Back Pocket *2 pieces

In order for the pockets not to lose the curved lines on the side, we made a mold for the ironing.

隠しリベットは先日説明した通り/the concealed rivets as explained in the previous blog

I thought at first that the vintage we had had lost the red tab already but looking closely at the pair I could find just a tiny, tiny fragment of the tab remaining so we referred the placement to it. It sits much lower than usual as you can see.

Usually the needle work on the back pocket is done all in one-go but the vintage was done differently, two separate stitch works.

Don’t know why but the back pocket stitch work starts way above the pocket. We also produced the same exact stitch line, some points being zigzag and curved.

丸く縫ったり戻ってみたり not pointy at the corners at all

早く穿きたい I just wanna wear these jeans for the fades!




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